Teenage Engineering OP-1 Connector Board Austausch

Geschrieben von: teenage engineering
  • Kommentare: 45
Teenage Engineering OP-1 Connector Board Austausch

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Einfach

Schritte

3

Zeitaufwand

10 Minuten

Einleitung

Verwende diese Anleitung, um das OP-1 Connector Board auszutauschen (inklusive Mikrofon, Line-In/Line-Out Anschlüssen und USB Anschluss).

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    • Öffne die Rückabdeckung an der kurzen Seite mit einem Jimmy. Achte darauf, nicht die Beschichtung des OP-1 zu beschädigen.

    • Hebe die Abdeckung an und nimm sie ab. Das Connector Board ist frei gelegt.

    I used a broad edged scalpel to do the same thing, just popped right out.

    Stephen Holder -

    Please!!!!!!…. For the love of God talk to Teenage engineering about getting these back in stock. I am in desperate need of one!!!! Thank you

    Matt Robinson -

    I believe the instructions here are incorrect - removal of the connector panel in this way will almost certainly damage the paint on the OP1 .

    There are two better methods to remove the cover:

    - If you have a spare cover (as included, for example, with the iFixit connector board part), carefully screw a self tapping screw into the cover, then use a pair of pliers on the screw to remove the cover.

    - Remove the keyboard as per the relevant iFixit guide. Once the keyboard is removed, there is a small hole at a 45 degree angle that allows you to access the underside of the connector board cover whilst avoiding the connector board itself. You can see it at the top of the photo above. Use a small object, such as the handle of a small paintbrush, to push out the connector cover from the keyboard side. This will result in clean removal of the connector board cover without damage to the chassis and allow it to be reused.

    lee -

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    • Löse das Flachbandkabel, indem du es mit einem Spudger nach oben anhebst.

    • Entferne die drei Kreuzschlitzschrauben. Achte darauf, dass du nicht die Unterlegscheibe bei der untersten Schraube verlierst.

    • Nimm das Connector Board heraus.

    • Die Gummiunterlage unter dem Connector Board solltest du drin lassen.

    I had very little success using a spudger or similar to remove the plastic cover, especially without marking the paint.

    In the end, I used a small, self-tapping steel screw to screw into the plastic cover (using a screwdriver) and then removed then plastic cover using a pair of pliers on the screw. Came straight out! Just make sure you put the screw in between the white jack and the casing where there is plenty of clearance.

    Any other method will almost definitely scratch the paint.

    lee -

    I used the same scalpel to very gently lever up the board from the top right edge, there was a sound of adhesive being pulled from, same at the bottom. Then used tweezers to tease out the board by the headphone jack. The reason for doing this was the right side audio only worked when pushed the jack cable away from the body. I suspected a bad solder joint and so reflowed all the 6 legs. It worked.

    Stephen Holder -

    I have a problem with the power switch being stuck when I screw the screws back in all the way. If I loosen the screws a bit I can move the power switch however I had the bottom screw come loose and rattle around in the Op1. I got it out alright but any tips on how I can screw it in enough and still be able to move the switch?

    Israel Leitch -

    I have a problem with the screws not wanting to loosen. I ended up striping 2 of the 3 screws. Any tips?

    shane Becker -

    Here are some general hints for removing a stripped screws: Wie man eine rundgedrehte Schraube entfernt

    Tobias Isakeit -

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    • Vergiss nicht die Abdeckung des An-/Aus-Schalters.

    • Nimm sie einfach ab und übertrage sie auf den Schalter am neuen Connector Board.

Abschluss

Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.

Tinte & Feder

teenage engineering

Mitglied seit: 23/10/13

951 Reputation

37 Kommentare

Veeery useful , thank you !

mouchtouris alexandre -

Even with the Jimmy I can't seem to get the back panel off... a video would be helpful :)

Shawn Ivie -

Got the back panel off finally but my connector board won't come out.

Shawn Ivie -

Ok... finally got the connector board out. It took a bit of gentle prying using a very small thin screw driver bit on each side of the connector board. Once I had the right side popped up a bit I was able to push on the input output jacks from the outside to get clearance. Removing the connector board and putting it back in resolved the power switch issues I was experiencing. No new connector board needed! :)

Shawn Ivie -

Worked well for me. I had a problem where the power would go when I plugged into the headphone jack + the power switch was a bit wobbly and flaky. Jimmy was ideal for removing cover. Like new. Thanks!

Toby Curnow -

Please! Help me. I need new jack out, because i have problems with it (no signal, or wery low signal) when i plug in my headphones, i need time to found position for normal sound. Where i can get new jack out and how i can fix it?

(sorry for my bad English. I hope you understand)

Daniel Likhomanov -

The first time I actually repaired something properly. And something so valuable and beloved! Thanks for the tutorial!

thomas greuel -

When will you restock

Christopher Lyles -

How many re-stocks of this part are ordered a year? am hoping it is sooner than later.

Coates Cunningham -

The soldering quality on this is terrible - just shoddy machine soldering and it lasted 3 days. Unfortunately I am stuck with this crap as nobody else makes the replacement board. So my question - is it safe to solder a fresh board?

nomoretags1 -

When will u have some connector boards?

Wyatt t -

There’s also a black rubber backing on the bottom of where the old board lays, which may stick to the old board when you take it out. This happened to me and I didn’t notice until after. I had to take out the new board and put the rubber cushion/backing back in.

Brett Smith -

Thanks for the note. I put an extra bullet in the according step.

Tobias Isakeit -

Das hat geklappt! Mein OP-1 Mic geht wieder nach dem Ersetzen des Connector Boards!

Thank You!

Wolfgang Zwiauer -

Top, freut uns zu hören, dass die Reparatur gelungen ist. Frohes Musizieren.

Tobias Isakeit -

Worked just fine for me! I was so afraid to break the board trying to remove it but the little thing is studrier than I thought.

I did it in less than ten minutes with no problems whatsoever. Thank you!

I’ll treat that microphone as softly as I can from now on.

Flavio Bissolati -

Thanks for this guide. It’s very helpful.

One question, the ADMP401 MEMS Microphone on this boards. Does anyone know how it mounted? It doesn’t seem to be soldered, so maybe glued? Mine is weak and tinny so I’m considering replacing it.

schack lindemann -

Thank you sir ! Just fixed my OP1 that was turning itself ON all the time. No extra pieces required. It seems that the power plastic part was a bit off.

Pierre Prinzbach -

Hi, I have just bought a new connector board to replace my broken one. Unfortunately, I cannot get the screws out from of the board so cannot put the new board in. I have a set of 12 screwdrivers and none are working - can’t seem to budge these screws at all. Do you have any tips beyond ‘remove the screws’? Any specific type of screwdriver, or does it require other strategies? Thanks.

Jamie Sexton -

Hi Jamie, listed in the tools section is a Phillips #00 screwdriver. You might even be successful with an accurate and pointy Phillips #0. Try to apply a little more downward force for the initial jolt to loosen the screw, but be careful not to slip onto the board (nah, you’re replacing it anyway, aren’t you ;)

Tobias Isakeit -

Does this come with the screws to hold it in? Funny, I popped the cover off to take a look at my connector board and it only has 1 of the screws…2 empty screw holes staring back at me (and I did not buy used. This came directly from TE). Buying this with the blind hope that it will fix my OP-1. I will charge it for 15-20 hours and the next day when I go to turn it on, it’s dead already. I’ve replaced the battery, I’ve checked all internal connections, I’m at a complete loss and I’m hoping this is what the Dr. ordered.

Lord Shongo -

Hi Lord Shongo, the connector board kit does not contain the screws, sorry (just the board and a spare back panel)

OP-1 Connector Board

You might want to contact TE directly and ask if they know another reason for your OP-1 not working properly, especially after having replaced the battery. It might be something else in there that’s faulty (and maybe they have some spare screws for you ;)

Tobias Isakeit -

I had a bad solder joint on the headphone socket. This guide helped me fix that. All working now. Thank you.

Stephen Holder -

Awesome, nice to see that guides can help for other issues, too.

Tobias Isakeit -

Yay! My OP-1 is fixed now! Thank you!!

Sarah MacDougall -

my back panel absolutely will not come off. I’m pretty sure I’ve completely messed up the panel area at this point. There was just never any space for the jimmy to fit. Not sure what to do now.

Laurence Putterman -

Laurence, if you haven’t already gotten this sorted, see my comment below.

lee -

Can you guys release the schematics for these? I need one really &&^&^$^ badly and would rather just build my own at this point. Like give us the altium file or something so we can just make a custom PCB.

Bryce Edwards -

Unfortunately, we don’t have any schematics. But with the 10 year anniversary of the OP-1 you might get an answer from Teenage Engineering directly. If so, consider putting the file up on the device page here.

Tobias Isakeit -

i reeeaaallly hopee these are back in stock soon

Omar Wiseman -

Hi, I broke the headphone jack.

Does anybody know where the pads from the J301-TRS connector goes. I can see the one in the bottom right goes to diode D312.

Any idea on where these pads go its welcome. I have all the proper tools in my workbench to fix it (fine tip solder iron and fine solder wire, microscope, multi-meter, etc.)

Thanks in advance

AUDITORY BODIES -

Maybe you can connect to Bryce Edwards (two questions above yours) and ask for the schematics of the connector board? Would be awesome if TE is more open now that the OP-1 is 10 years old.

Tobias Isakeit -

When I opened the tap, find that the three screws are damaged, and cant use the screwdriver as normal. I never opened the back tap before, so it means that Teenag Engineering sell me this unit it in bad condition. Now I have not warranty.

I will try solder the input line socket, before try harder options for replace the cardboard.

I would recommend users check their units, and try unscrew the screws before and avoid surprises.

Ivan Gutierrez -

Restock this thing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

John Ribadeneyra -

Any idea when the connector board will be available again?

Cristian Nunez -

I believe the instructions for removal of the connector board cover are incorrect - removal of the connector panel in this way will almost certainly damage the paint on the OP1 .

There are two better methods to remove the cover:

- If you have a spare cover (as included, for example, with the iFixit connector board part), carefully screw a self tapping screw into the cover, then use a pair of pliers on the screw to remove the cover.

- Remove the keyboard as per the relevant iFixit guide. Once the keyboard is removed, there is a small hole at a 45 degree angle that allows you to access the underside of the connector board cover whilst avoiding the connector board itself. You can see it at the top of the photo above. Use a small object, such as the handle of a small paintbrush, to push out the connector cover from the keyboard side. This will result in clean removal of the connector board cover without damage to the chassis and allow it to be reused.

lee -

I have an alternative suggestion for removal of the back panel.

I also had difficulty removing the back panel using a jimmy (and a guitar pick), so I stuck some heavy-duty tape to one end of the panel and gave the tape a sharp pull perpendicular to the surface. It came off quickly and easily without any damage to either the panel or the body of the OP-1. There was some minor tape residue left over but it cleaned up without any issue.

I used cloth backed electrical tape, but I imagine that any strong non-permanent tape would do the trick.

Nick Howe -