Einleitung

Use this guide to replace the speakers in your Steam Deck. The left and right speakers are tethered into a single cable, so they need to be replaced as a pair.

Before you begin, completely power down and unplug all cables from your Steam Deck. Remember to follow general electrostatic discharge (ESD) safety procedures while repairing the device.

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    • To minimize risk of damage, turn on your Steam Deck and allow the battery to discharge below 25% before starting your repairs. A charged lithium-ion battery can be very dangerous if accidentally punctured.

    • Before starting this guide, power down your Steam Deck and unplug any cables.

    • As an extra precaution, Valve recommends putting your Steam Deck into battery storage mode within the BIOS before starting any internal repairs. Read how to do that here.

    • If you have a microSD card installed, make sure to remove it before opening the Steam Deck.

    • Use a Phillips driver to remove the eight screws securing the back cover:

    • Four 9.5 mm screws

    • Four 5.8 mm screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your Steam Deck.

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    • Insert an opening pick into the thin gap between the back cover and the front shell, along the edge of the right grip.

    • Pry up on the back cover to release it from the locking clips.

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    • Once the clips are disconnected from one edge, the rest disconnect easily.

    • Grip the back cover at the opening you just created and pull it up and away from the device to unclip the long edges.

    • Remove the back cover.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the piece of foil tape covering the hidden screw on the board shield.

    • If possible, try not to rip or tear this tape so it can be reused. If necessary, you can fashion a replacement by cutting a piece of aluminum foil tape to fit.

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    • Use a Phillips driver to remove the three screws securing the board shield:

    • One 3.4 mm screw

    • Two 3.7 mm screws

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    • Grip the battery cable by its pull tab and pull it directly away from the motherboard to disconnect it.

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    • Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.4 mm screw securing the SSD.

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    • With the SSD screw removed, the SSD will pop up at a shallow angle.

    • Grip the end of the SSD and pull it away from its M.2 board connector to remove it.

    • During reassembly, insert the SSD at a shallow angle into its board connector, and secure it back into its horizontal position with the SSD screw.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the sticker from the top edge of the fan.

    • If possible, try not to rip or tear this sticker so it can be reused. Use a little bit of heat if necessary to soften the adhesive.

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    • Use a Phillips driver to loosen and remove the two screws securing the heatsink to the motherboard:

    • One captive 3.5 mm screw

    • One 3.4 mm screw

    • No, your eyes don't deceive you! The third heatsink screw was removed earlier in the disassembly: it doubles as the hidden board shield screw.

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    • Lift and remove the heatsink.

    • Before reinstalling the heatsink, follow this guide to clean the heatsink and APU and reapply thermal paste.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to grip the edges of the fan connector and pull up to disconnect it from the motherboard.

    • Pull the fan cable by its connector, not the wires themselves.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to peel up and remove the Wi-Fi shield tape.

    • If possible, try not to rip or tear this sticker so it can be reused. Use a little bit of heat if necessary to soften the adhesive.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to grip the edges of the speaker connector and pull up to disconnect it from the motherboard.

    • Pull the speaker cable by its connector, not the wires themselves.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to grip the antenna connector close to its base.

    • Pull straight up to disconnect the cable.

    • Repeat for the second antenna cable.

    • During reassembly, ensure that both antenna cables are reconnected at their appropriate connectors. The labels on the cables match the markings on the Wi-Fi module.

    • To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.

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    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the display cable's ZIF connector.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.

    • Grip the cable by the pull tab, not by the cable itself.

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    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the audio cable's ZIF connector.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.

    • Grip the cable by its pull tab, not by the cable itself.

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    • Carefully peel the audio cable off of the battery.

    • The audio cable is secured to the battery with some light adhesive.

    • If the adhesive is stubborn, don't force the cable. Lightly heat the audio cable using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.

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    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board cable's ZIF connector.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.

    • Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.

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    • Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 3.7 mm screws securing the motherboard.

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    • Remove the motherboard.

    • The audio and button board cables attach to the underside of the motherboard with ZIF connectors.

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    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board interconnect cable's ZIF connector on the left button board.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.

    • Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.

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    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board interconnect cable's ZIF connector on the right button board.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.

    • Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the tape bundling the speaker wire to the Wi-Fi antenna cables.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the various strips of black tape routing the speaker wire along the bottom edge of the chassis.

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    • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the right speaker and the frame.

    • Pivot the spudger up to separate the speaker from the light adhesive securing it against the front shell.

    • If the adhesive is stubborn, don't force the speaker out. Lightly heat it using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive underneath.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to grip and remove the right speaker from its cavity.

    • When removing the speaker, ensure that the fragile speaker mesh underneath stays in place. During reassembly, make sure it's uncreased and lays flat against the front shell.

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    • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the left speaker and the frame.

    • Pivot the spudger up to separate the speaker from the light adhesive securing it against the front shell.

    • If the adhesive is stubborn, don't force the speaker out. Lightly heat it using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive underneath.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to grip and remove the left speaker from its cavity.

    • When removing the speaker, ensure that the fragile speaker mesh underneath stays in place. During reassembly, make sure it's uncreased and lays flat against the front shell.

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    • Remove the tethered right and left speakers.

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    • During reassembly, note that the speakers are labeled, such as:

    • LUX-F7A-L for the left speaker.

    • LUX-F7A-R for the right speaker.

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    • To ensure a good adhesive bond, thoroughly clean all adhesion surfaces.

    • Use adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol (>90%) to remove any remaining residue. Wipe with a cotton swab or microfiber cloth until all the adhesive residue is gone.

    • While isopropyl alcohol is generally safe to use on electronics, they will dissolve certain foam adhesives. Be careful to contain the alcohol when cleaning—don't use too much.

    • Allow any leftover isopropyl alcohol to completely evaporate before reassembly.

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    • Peel off and discard the liners on the speakers themselves, exposing the adhesive underneath.

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    • Place each speaker into its slot and press firmly with your fingers to set them in place.

    • The right speaker will be on your lefthand side and vice versa when working on the Steam Deck, as it's laying upside down.

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    • Fit the speaker cable into the two hooks along the bottom of the chassis.

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    • Remove the adhesive liners from the tape strips along the speaker cable.

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    • To ensure proper cable management, stick one speaker cable adhesive to the top edge of the chassis, leaving ~3 mm at the top unstuck.

    • Use an opening pick to wrap the adhesive over the edge of the battery tray, sticking it to the inside edge.

    • Repeat for the second cable adhesive, and continue reassembly.

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Steam Deck answers community for help.

Carsten Frauenheim

Mitglied seit: 10/03/20

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